Ultra-thin watchmaking is a fascinating topic that focuses on creating the slimmest movements possible. While most high-end watches aim to include numerous complications, ultra-thin watches prioritize miniaturization. In recent years, brands like Piaget and Bulgari have shown a strong interest in this field, breaking records and pushing boundaries.
Piaget broke the record in 2018 with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which boasts a 2mm thin case and a groundbreaking construction that merges the movement and case. Bulgari quickly answered with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, measuring just 1.70mm in thickness and becoming the thinnest mechanical watch since its introduction in 2024.
Piaget upgraded the Altiplano Ultimate Concept by adding a tourbillon without increasing the thickness of the 2mm case. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon holds the record for the thinnest tourbillon watch.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic still holds the title for the thinnest automatic watch ever created, measuring only 3.95mm in height. Its movement is just 1.95mm thick, achieved by using a peripheral rotor instead of a central oscillating weight or micro-rotor.
The Piaget Altiplano 900P, measuring 4.30mm in thickness, was the thinnest time-only automatic watch when it was introduced. The movement is integrated into the caseback, saving space, and the watch is wound by a peripheral rotor.
Piaget broke the record for the thinnest chronograph watch with the Altiplano Chronograph, which measures only 6.90mm. It features an automatic movement with a peripheral rotor and includes an independent second time zone display. Bulgari later introduced the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, securing the title for the thinnest chronograph watch with a combination of complications.
Audemars Piguet initially held the record for the thinnest perpetual calendar watch, but Bulgari countered with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. This automatic watch with a case of 5.80mm is the world's thinnest perpetual calendar watch.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is the world's thinnest minute repeater watch ever created, with a movement measuring only 3.12mm and a case thickness of 6.85mm. Despite its compact size, it includes all the necessary components for a minute repeater.
Research indicates that Vacheron Constantin's reference 10726 is possibly the thinnest pocket watch ever made. With a movement measuring only 0.94mm, this rare timepiece showcases the brand's expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking.
In the 1970s, the Swiss and Japanese watch industries engaged in a battle over ultra-thin watches. Japanese watchmakers, particularly Seiko and Citizen, revolutionized the technology and created some of the thinnest watches at the time. The Swiss fought back with the Concord Delirium series, achieving record-breaking thinness and showcasing their own technological advancements.
The world of ultra-thin watches continues to evolve, with brands constantly pushing the boundaries of what is possible. These incredible timepieces combine technical mastery with artistic design, proving that watchmaking is not just about telling time, but also about pushing the limits of engineering and aesthetics.
